Rear Hatch Modification- Tear Down and Templates

Recently I re-acquired my rear hatch from a friend that I gave it to (thinking I'd never want to use it again). HA. It is now my intention to remount the hatch and continue the body lines the engineers of the Cherokee worked so hard to achieve. In addition, I think it looks more complete by not allowing the brake lights to just "hang out" there in space. So off I went in disassembling the hatch and its components. 

Items needing to be removed included: Trim, glass, wiper and wiper motor, handle and linkage. The worst of them all was the glass. I took my time so that I would slice myself open, but eventually broke the glass and cut myself anyway. 

Then I had to re-acquire some hinges for the hatch, so off to the local Pull-a-Part I went.

The I fitted the hatch without the spare tire in so I could see if I had any issues. Everything aligned well and it was off to the next step. Installing the spare tire and marking the hatch for cutting.

With the spare tire in it is plain to see the tire sticks out [into] the hatch.

I grabbed the necessary tools to begin cutting.

I started hacking away at the inside of the hatch first, opening it up until it accepted the tire. The hatch closed a little more..

Then I started cutting the outside panel. I did this in a rectangular shape large enough to clear the tire as the hinged hatch swings down over it.

Then I made a template for the 1/4"  Marguard #10 I'll be purchasing this week to replace the heavy, unsafe rear windshield.

Then I started designing the template for the tire hole/license plate. Obviously it need to be bowed outward to allow room for the tire. This is what I came up with. I'll transfer this to .22ga sheet metal and weld everything in place. This entire hatch is getting re-painted (inside and out) so it doesn't bother me if it gets grinded on...for now.

Then I added the rear handle, which is now rendered non-operational, and the factory eyebrow above the license plate template that will house a LED for the license plate.

My goal is to blend the sheet metal work in, paint the hatch black, get the third brake light working and the LED in the eyebrow. Since the hatch doesn't have a operational handle or inside latch it will remain securely closed with Autofab hood pins, identical to the versions used on my hood. I'll use two hood pins, one at each lower corner of the hatch. I still need to get some hood struts to keep the hatch up, but they will be included in the final plan as well. 

Here is a small video describing the process:

Dirtbound Offroad Extreme Winch Front Bumper with Brush Guard- Review

I put a new video up on my You Tube page. It's on the Dirtbound Offroad Front Bumper. 

Dune Buggy Hill

Tommy lifting a tire in the Cherokee on "Kit Kat". Give me a break, give me a break...

Check out my You Tube page

High-Performance Jeep Cherokee XJ Builder's Guide 1984-2001

I just got my copy in today. Where shall I begin...

This is a paper back book loaded with pictures and write-ups of 'mild to wild' XJ's. Tons of information from axles and tires size recommendations to engine and transmission upgrades. 9 chapters [144 pgs.]that touch base on topics such as 'fender trimming and flare options' to 'suspension upgrades'. There are plenty of 2-3 page spreads that feature other XJ owners and their proud Cherokees to give you more inspiration for your build. Plus you get to benefit from their mistakes and build it right, the first time! Loaded with product recommendations from larger companies such as Yukon and Warn to smaller grass-root companies such as AJ's Offroad Armor and JCR. This book is jammed packed full of tips and tricks to help you get the most out of your XJ. A MUST read for anyone interested in maximizing the offroad potential of your 1984- 2001 Cherokee.

Even author Eric Zappe has a small spread of his amazing 2000 Cherokee dubbed "Project Rubicon". Eric is a proud member of www.naxja.org (North American XJ Association) and a moderator on www.Jeepforum.com.  You can monitor his [build] progress on his website www.ericsxj.com.

Here's the link to grab the book:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1613250657/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=esx-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=1613250657

www.ericsxj.com

Source: www.ericsxj.com, www.naxja.org, www.jeepforum.com

Dirtbound Offroad Extreme Winch Bumper- Install

The Dirtbound Offroad Extreme Winch Bumper with Brush Guard to be exact. Available to you here for an amazingly low price of $475. If you like to weld buy the DIY kit for $265 here. Either way, you'll be happy with the design.

The DirtBound Extreme Winch Bumper features many unique features that set itself apart from others.

• Standard full frame tie in brackets with integrated 1″ of adjustability for better vehicle fitment.
• CNC Plasma cut from 3/16 steel for precision fit and ready to weld for the best finish.
• D-Ring mounts. (Optional)
• Aggressive Styling.
• Pre-Drilled winch mounting holes 10″ x 4.5″ (Comp Winch pattern available by request)
• Hand Made in the USA.
• Bumper comes bare steel ready for welding.
• The (optional) aggressive brush guard protects your headlights and grille from trees bushes, the setback winch provides optimal airflow to the radiator while protecting the winch from rocks and other obstacles.

Pros: Full coverage wrap-around design, great approach angle, quality material, strong welds, fantastic customer service. Extremely competitive price and fast shipping.

Cons: Considering the brushguard is not advertised a stinger, I have no complaints. This product is amazing! But if you were to depend on the center tubing arrangement as a stinger you would be disappointed. It needs to be taller (I may address this in the near future)

Seriously though, I'm very happy with this bumper. I have slightly customized it with different light mounts and a "spider stick" holder" for those summer night rides. I painted it rattle can satin black and mounted my Tabor Winch and rock lights in the empty cavities underneath. I really like the look the tubing gives you, it's kinda of like the Jeep is mean muggin'. Dirtbound Offroad includes (2) frame brackets that we decided to weld on the "frame" and bolt on to the bumper. Because of my [thicker] reinforced sub-frame, I special ordered the bumper to accommodate for the sub-frame plating. Max,the owner of Dirtbound knew exactly what I was referring to and said it would not be a problem to make these adjustments during the fabrication of the bumper. As a result the bumper fits to perfection. But if you do make a mistake the brackets are slotted and are extremely forgiving. 

Delivered via FedEx just as it sits. Weight: 65lbs. Unpainted in (3) pieces.

Dry fit. Checking clearances and mounting brackets.

 Front view, dry fit. You can see the optional D-ring mounts. I really like the lower winch mount design.

 Wrap around design covers the marker lights. Here you see a rock light hanging down. It's not mounted there.

 Mounting plate/brackets. They go way back. Most of the holes didn't line up to well with the HD Offroad Engineering sub-frame plating kit, therefore we decided to weld these on. This is the drivers' side.

We opened up the holes for the steering box bolts to allow a socket on there in the future.

We even welded the brackets on the inside where they meet the front cross-member.

 Passenger side mount.

Front cross-member mount welds.

 The mounts as the meet the bumper. Grade 5 hardware. I replaced everything with grade 8.

 Inside the empty cavity underneath the bumper. This this where the mounting bracket rests as it slides into place. Slotted holes for you convenience.

(3) light tabs are welded on the center 1.5" tube. 

 D-ring mounts. Good solid passes on the welds.

 Nice welds on the tubing as well!

 The Dirtbound Offroad logo on the front of the bumper to the right of the fairlead mount.

 Spider sticker holder. Milled down on the lathe and designed with a set screw.

This is what it's used for. Mounting a stick of any sort to the bumper to tear down any spider webs that span across the trails before they get inside your cab. As long as the stick is as tall as your rig your safe. Otherwise it doesn't offer you the full protection plan. I use a bamboo stick from a fly fishing rod and a evil bird head from an old Halloween costume. 

 Blue Fire 13.5" LED light bar. 120 watts which is only 10amp draw on a 12v system!

Super strong, not-going-anywhere light tabs.

Spooling up the synthetic winch line.

 The front rock lights tuck up in the cavity very nicely.

 Fresh coat of satin black paint.

 Ready for some action.

 Source: http://www.dirtboundoffroad.com/