It's time for another front end alignment after replacing tie rod heim joints and especially after I noticed my spindle nuts were only hand tight when I did my last alignment. So I was sure the toe was off. Since my tie rod was built with left and right threaded heims it allows me to adjust it on my own. Here's the technique..
Put the front end on jack stands so the front tires spin freely.
I built some kind of contraption that held a scraper tightly in place. A screwdriver would work just as well. A vice would be even better. But the point is to scribe a line around the circumference of the tire. You must hold the scraper/screwdriver tightly in place so the line remains straight.
Marry the scraper to the tire so that's it's close enough to make contact with the tire and scribe a line in the rubber.
I stood on the wood blocks that held the scraper down so it wouldn't move and spun the tire 360 degrees. Do both tires the same way.
Measure the distance between the lines in the front of tires.
Measure the distance between the line in the back of the tires.
If the front measurement is less than the rear, you're toe'd in. If the rear measurement is less than the front you're toe'd out. Essentially you want your tires to toe in 3/8"-1/2". I was at toe'd in at 5/8" and as a result I need to turn the tie rod heim joints inward a turn or two and re-measure to bring that down to 1/2".
Saturday, October 29, 2011
Trimming lug nuts
The first time I saw this I was at a pre-race inspection for the XRRA. They insisted that all lug nuts be "uncapped" so that a visual inspection could be performed at any time. It also prevents any build up of dirt from staying inside the lug. So I grinded off the cap and cleaned up the threads and re-installed.
Now when my OCD kicks in I just have to glance at the stud to see if anything has loosened up.
Now when my OCD kicks in I just have to glance at the stud to see if anything has loosened up.
Drag link updated parts
I installed new hardware on the drag link. New grade 8 bolts, chromoly heims joints, and alignment spacers. There was some slack in the heims (after 3 years without changing them), it was kind of expected. Now I can move on to the front end alignment knowing that all heims have been replaced and there will be no slack in the steering.
Friday, October 28, 2011
8.25 Chunk Cover Threaded Bung
After taking the rear chunk cover off to do a fluid change, I realized the rubber plug was beginning to deteriorate and needed replaced. So I opted to have the unthreaded bung cut out and replaced with the threaded bung from a D60. Originally we thought it needed to be cut out with a plasma, but then realized a hole saw would work just fine.
Untouched original cover
Rubber plug on left. Plasma cut threaded bung on right.
Interior view untouched cover.
Interior view threaded bung welded to outside of cover.
Finished product. I'm not grinding anymore. I don't want to compromise the integrity of the welds.
3/4" tapered pipe thread plug with a 9/16" sunken hex head.
Untouched original cover
Rubber plug on left. Plasma cut threaded bung on right.
Interior view untouched cover.
Interior view threaded bung welded to outside of cover.
Finished product. I'm not grinding anymore. I don't want to compromise the integrity of the welds.
3/4" tapered pipe thread plug with a 9/16" sunken hex head.
Thursday, October 20, 2011
Soft Door Stops
In an effort to stop bashing my door skins while [over-opening] my doors I have decided to install some CJ stops.
Tap out the holes to 1/4"
Tap out the holes to 1/4"
Radiator catch can
It was time to re-install this. When I moved the fuse box inside (from under the hood) the bracket the catch can was mounted on was removed. I routed to overflow hose to the ground in front of the driver's tire. Eventually I got tired of filling the radiator up with water every ride, so I decided to re-install this. I still need all the room I can get under the hood for future shock placement, so this is where it ended up.
Sunday, October 9, 2011
Maintenance Time
Well the Jeep is in the garage for a couple weeks. I'm waiting on the next Grayrock ride to bring it out. It needs a bunch of maintenance done to keep it reliable.
-New heims on the drag link
-Regap the spark plugs (since I pulled the MSD and have forgot since then)
-Change chunk fluid front and rear
-Change Transfer case fluid
-Install door stops on front skins
-Front end alignment
-New front end bearings/races/seals
-Install Alloy USA axle tube seals
-Clean dust out of intake tube, air filter, throttle body
-Fix rock lights
-Install oil cooler and lines
-Install rear chunk catch can
-Install radiator catch can
-Install steering wheel
-Check every bolt, grease everything
-New heims on the drag link
-Regap the spark plugs (since I pulled the MSD and have forgot since then)
-Change chunk fluid front and rear
-Change Transfer case fluid
-Install door stops on front skins
-Front end alignment
-New front end bearings/races/seals
-Install Alloy USA axle tube seals
-Clean dust out of intake tube, air filter, throttle body
-Fix rock lights
-Install oil cooler and lines
-Install rear chunk catch can
-Install radiator catch can
-Install steering wheel
-Check every bolt, grease everything